This Blogs for Dobbs

Howdy,

This is my first official post. Thanks Pablo for posting my previous emails.

Before posting this I took a minute to read over my previous emails/posts. It's funny, they weren't quite as boring as a I remember them. I especially liked how it started...with my naive email downplaying the trouble in Kenya and complaints of how the media was distorting everything. Sorry.

Of course, I did live in an area that was safe and continued to be safe throughout all of the violence. And there were a lot of places that were safe in Kenya. More importantly, I want to point out how quickly the issues have been settled. I know, first hand, that many Kenyans believe in the importance of democracy, and they believe in a unified Kenya. I think this showed in reconciliation efforts made after the election violence. In my remaining days in Kenya, I listened to the radio quite a bit and it was filled with messages promoting peace and advertisements of donation efforts to ease the suffering of the victims of the violence.

Not that I want to make things sound too peachy... The pressure put on by the opposition (violence included as much as I hate to say it) forced Kibaki to relinquish power.

Anyway, things seem to be better now. A power sharing agreement has been reached that both parties are happy with. Hopefully, they will be able to work out the rest of the details and deal with constitutional and land reform issues soon.

By the way, if you are not content with international news coverage. I usually go to http://www.nationmedia.com/ to check out the progress in Kenya.

Well enough of Kenya.

Lesotho has it's own problems.

With an average HIV/AIDS rate of ~ 23 %(as high as 40% for some groups), this country could literally disappear. In the past 10 years the population has dropped from about ~2.4million to 1. 5 million.

Sometimes I try to bring this up to my students. I just want to motivate them, and let them how their country's future is resting on their shoulders. And then, I remember I am probably talking to a child who has lost either one or both of their parents to AIDS...

I usually stop at this point a little ashamed, never really sure what to say.

And of course, then there is the usual developing country nonsense. There are government officials buying beamers for $300. A new transportation policy is bumping up the monthly fees for bus drivers by something like 500%. Where is the money going? To buy new buses of course...which will put the old drivers out of business. And then there is the massive country wide pyramid scam. A huge number of Basotho have bought into this plan, and are expecting their pay day soon. Unfortunately, the guy who started it is pretty much bankrupt...oops.

So, what have I been up to? Training here in Maseru. As always there is a lot of wasted time, but honestly it has been one of the most effective sessions I have had with the peace corps. After talking to other volunteers about their teaching experience, I am feeling a little more confident about teaching. Also, our counterparts (my principal) came in for a workshop, and we had the chance to talk to them about possible projects for our community. I have not talked to him before about community projects, so I am feeling much more optimistic about that. And who knows...maybe...someday I will be able to blind the lizard (that's how we say "take a wiz" here) in a pit latrine with a door. woohoo!

Okay. I would like to leave on that note. Talk to you in a few months.
-Jeremy

Lesotho

Lumelang,



Well, it has been a while, but I am in Maseru for training so I can finally use the internet again. Things have been a little crazy since I last wrote, but it has mostly been a good crazy. My site is in a small village called Bethel. The nearest "large town" is called Mount Moorosi-not named for the big mountain that it sits at the foot of...but for the small mountain/mesa ~10 kilometers away. I don't know.



Bethel is beautiful. It is located in a valley, surrounded by mountains that reminds me a lot of the grand canyon. A river runs close by and during the rainy seasons (my summer, your winter) the best way to get there is with a boat. ( It was cheaper than building a bridge.) My counterpart has horses and he will let my ride one when I want. The first time I tried was a little rough. I pull on the left...the damn thing goes to the right. My second attempt went much better. I rode with a volunteer who lived in a nearby village called Katani. These horses were trained in the western style(as opposed to english) and much easier to handle. I got up to a gallop my first try with no problem. I have to say, though, it's a lot more painful than it looks. All that bouncing up and down...Still a lot of fun though.



School has its up and downs. In Kenya my first attempts to teach were very positive. The students were good. Also, I didn't have to worry too much about homework and grades or discipline. More importantly, though, when I started my biggest fear was being able to confidently stand in front of the students and deliver some semblance of a lecture. Now, I'm less concerned with that, but I realized how important the "behind the scene" work is. Discipline, grading homework, checking students progress, tests, lesson planning...it's tough. And sometimes I just don't teach things the right way. These students do not know engish well and have poor background in science and math. Sometimes the things they do not know are surprising. There are good times though. It just takes one student to stop by my house and ask for help and suddenly the day gets a lot better.



Speaking of good times. Getting off mefloquine (malarial meds) might have been the best thing to happen to me here in Lesotho. I hate those pills. Imagine coming to a new country...a new, exciting, place, and your soul is just weighed down...sloshing around in the gutter. Ugh. Reminds me too much of college.



Alas, winter is coming. I've been mud sliding on dongas, sliding on natural water rock slides.Hopefully, we'll get snow and I'll do some skiiing :-) Okay, I hope this was not too boring. I'll be here in Maseru for 10 days, and I'd love to hear from you. -Jeremy

New location

I am going to go to Lesotho and will be starting things over again. I will either teach in a secondary school or teach teachers.

Goodbye Kenya

Well, it seems that things have changed quite a lot since the last time I wrote. No political agreements have been formed, and the violence has continued. More volunteers had to be evacuated and violence erupted in Naivasha, a town where Peace Corps used to train volunteers. Amid the turmoil, Peace Corps Kenya, the embassy, and Peace Corps Washintington decided to temporarily suspend the program. Was it a good decision? Maybe. Things are pretty tense here and a common belief is that things will either break out into a civil war or just fizzle out. I am still of the belief that I would have been safe in Ulilinzi, but as it turns out Peace Corps has other volunteers to worry about other than me.

So, the last few days have been demon hell ride. Officially I am no longer a Peace Corps Volunteer. I had a ton of paper work to fill out, and info. sessions to sit through. They mostly just talked about readjusting and all the benefits that I will not qualify for because I have not been here long enough. I also took my final language proficiency test...you know a month after the initial. But that's okay, because now( due to a clerical error) I now speak at an "intermediate high" level in Kiswahili.

As you might imagine if my time here was up this email would not be quite so upbeat. In fact, I probably wouldn't be writing... Fortunately, though, due to some quick work by the Peace Corps I have managed to qualify for joining another Peace Corps program. I even have choices. I can go to either Lesotho or Ghana.

I am having some trouble deciding. Ghana is in West Africa and I am sure the culture is very cool and different then Kenya. However, the climate is similar as are the attractions . Also, Ghana is relatively westernized in much the same way as Kenya. I'm afraid I would be in Kenya without Kiswahili, which by the way, is an excellent language. Lesotho, on the other hand is inside of South Africa. South Africa! (I would love to go there.) It is high up in the mountains and less westernized because of their isolation. It sounds beautiful... My job though would not be teaching. I would be a "teacher training resource teacher." Great job title huh? I'd be teaching teachers how to teach and sounds pretty demanding for a person who's never taught more then 2 weeks.

Now I am in Nairobi. My friends all left yesterday. Monday morning I will go to South Africa for administrative stuff and medical clearance. We will will be staying in Pretoria. Yesu Tamu...Pretoria! Cannot wait. When the Afrikaaners were pushing north through South Africa to escape English Control, they met resistance from the Zulus in what became Pretoria. And by resistance, I mean I handful of Afrikaaners (470) were met by 10,000 Zulus. The Afrikaaners surrounded themselves in their caravans and "because of god's help" were able to the defeat the zulus. Of course, the shotguns helped too. It is known as the Battle of blood river.

Well...I have to get going. I'll try to write again in Pretoria.

New developments

A week ago I thought things were settling down. Then I learned that most of the colleges in Nairobi had been shut down. Apparently there is a 6 o'clock curfew, and the police have been shooting potential trouble makers indiscriminately.

Anyway, I am in Nairobi now. The peace corps thought it would be wiser for me to come here and talk about my feelings during a two hour meeting instead of staying in Ulilinzi and teaching. It is pretty annoying. Well...the food is wonderful, and I am taking care of some other things that are actually important, but I Have some things to learn about teaching. My students are not as good as those that I had earlier at Chuluni girl's school. Their english is worse, and they are not as responsible with their homework. MOst of the other teachers their have simply lowered their expection of the students. In fact, they are pretty condescending at times and I really hope I will not have to stoop to that.

I'll keep you updated on that...

As for the violence, if you have not heard, I am one of the few people in my training group who has not been sent home. Most volunteers were stationed in the western provinces where the violence was and continues to be worse. Some might go to Tanzania, or the eastern province (where I am), but I think most will just stay home. So,I am pretty freaking lucky, and very grateful to still be here.

Will the violence subside? Some people say that all the rioters will eventually get tired and give up, and they might be right. Still, in the last couple weeks I have learned that the situation here is a little more complicated then I once thought.

I am staying with a tribe known as the Kambas. They are of Bantu origin, and so are the Kikuyu (Kenya's largest tribe & the tribe of President Kibaki). So, the two have a loose alliance in most politics. Nevertheless, Kambas are more neutral so they might have a clearer picture of the election violence. My principal, for instance, does not like Raila (a member of the Luo tribe and presidential nominee for the the opposition, ODM). However, he willingly admits that Raila probably won the election.

To understand why ODM, Raila, and most Luo might not just give up a little history is important. Kenya gained independence from the British in 1963. The kikuyus had been favored by the british since colonization. This made them more capable of ruling Kenya. So, after independence, Jomo Kenyatta (a kikuyu) was pretty much handed the presidency. Needless to say, this did not please the other large tribes (like the Luos).

Kenyatta visited Kisumu, a large western city in the first years of his presidency. During a speech he was booed and forced to leave. A large crowd was in the way of his convoy of vehicles when he was leaving. He just ran them over and I was told it was a massacre.

Since then, Kenya has been ruled by Moi, who although from a smaller tribe is loyal to Kikuyu, and Kibaki. There has been a history of political assasinations of political leaders who are Luo. Also, the government here is notoriously corrupt and without a doubt shows favoritism (with jobs) to the ruling Kikuyu party.

It seems the Luo have been disadvantaged for years. The election has just been stolen. Should they settle matters in courts that have kikuyu judges? not likely...
Should the parliament have a vote of no confidence to boot Kibaki out? Well, it turns out that if they manage to get enough votes for that, it will mean dissolving the entire government. Essentially, they would be firing themselves and have to run for reelection. So again, not likely.

Meanwhile, Kibaki is building his legitimacy by stomping on rallies and providing free secondary educuation.

And on a lighter note...Raila Odinga's son is named Fidel Castro Odinga.

I really have to go. Curfew is fast approaching.

Raila calls off rallies - time to go home

Well, Raila has called off the nationwide rallies so that means I can go home! I'm in Voi town today and should be heading back to Ulilinzi within a couple of hours. It was just in time too. The house I was staying at was slowly being overrun by ants (the kind that bite). Lines an inch thick were marching up to the house this morning. Swarms elsewhere were covering dishes, cracks in the walls, and other dark corners. The trip to the bathroom was a nightmare. And, by the way, having ants in your pants* is not nearly as funny as it sounds.

There is a lot more I could say about the elections, but I think it will have to wait for another day. Hopefully, things will continue to settle down and life will go on as normal.

*Kenyans speak British English. Pants are not trousers. They are underwear.

Kenya violence and its politics

Just wanted to let you know what's going on here.

First, I am still perfectly safe. I am completely secluded in the mountains (Taita Hills) surrounding Voi. Complete hell could break out in Kenya and I wouldn't notice a thing. If it does the peace corps has good evacuation plans, so don't worry.

As for the rest of Kenya, things have gotten worse... The death toll I think is over 200 with at least 74,000 displaced. "President" Kibaki has not given any indication that he will relinquish power and Raila (his opponent) is not letting up either. And why should they? It's obvious that both sides took part in rigging the vote, so it's hard to tell who won. None of the western powers recognize either leader.

I have colleagues in Mombasa, Eldoret, Kisumu and Nairobi. Some of them are stuck right now. They have heard gunfire and grenades outside of the hotels where they are staying.

On Thursday Raila has called for a march on Nairobi, and although both leaders are asking that all demonstrations be peaceful, there's a good chance that things will get even worse.

So, it's pretty tough to say what will happen from here. In the last election Kibaki won with almost no opposition. There was rioting for two weeks. I don't know when the current rioting will end. If things get too bad, of course, I will have to come home. Needless to say I'm pretty bummed out about that possibility. I mean, there are very few people that I've talked here (and I like to talk a lot about politics) that have any decent grasp on the politics. If Raila says he will give jobs to all the young people, they believe it. They are completely delusional and now they are ruining this country (and my job) because of it.